Isfahan is Iran's third city with a population of 1.9m. It feels relatively different to Shiraz and Tehran in that it's got a river... in fact, with all the bridges across the river it reminded us of Budapest. But that would not consider the Persian style the bridges are built in. We arrived there on a Friday (ie, Iran's weekend) and many locals sat near by the bridges and the brinks of the river to picnic.
Isfahan is Iran's number 1 tourist destination for good reason. The Unesco-listed city centre features Persian gardens, boulevards and other important Islamic buildings. The central square is the world's second largest after Tiananmen Sq in Beijing. Because it is a tourist-hotspot, there was a slightly more advanced market for tourists here. In Shiraz, Tehran and Kashan we were hardly ever approached by locals to be sold something (eg, handicraft, guided tours, etc.). That was different in Isfahan: but declining an offer is very easy in Iran: people leave you alone easily if you indicate you're not interested which is nothing compared to the rather aggressive selling you may come across on bazaars in Morocco or Turkey.
Isfahan is Iran's number 1 tourist destination for good reason. The Unesco-listed city centre features Persian gardens, boulevards and other important Islamic buildings. The central square is the world's second largest after Tiananmen Sq in Beijing. Because it is a tourist-hotspot, there was a slightly more advanced market for tourists here. In Shiraz, Tehran and Kashan we were hardly ever approached by locals to be sold something (eg, handicraft, guided tours, etc.). That was different in Isfahan: but declining an offer is very easy in Iran: people leave you alone easily if you indicate you're not interested which is nothing compared to the rather aggressive selling you may come across on bazaars in Morocco or Turkey.
Naqsh-e Jahan Square
When in 1602 the then reigning dynasty decided to make Isfahan Persia's capital, Naqsh-e Jahan (which means "Pattern of the World") was built. It owes much to the vision of Shah Abbas the Great. At 512m long and 163m wide, this is not only the 2nd biggest square on earth, it is also unbelievably elegant. The mosques around the square are highlighted seperately.
masjed-e Shah Mosque
This is a fairly big mosque that is all covered with blue-tiled mosaic designs. It's perfectly proportioned Safavid-era architecture; the entrance portal was built in 1611. The mismatches in its apparent symmetry intend to reflect the artist's humility in the face of Allah. The high dome was completed in 1629. We learnt that little has changed then. This site was breathtaking and the pictures don't quite capture its grandeur.
Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah
This mosque is a perfect modest counterpart to the overwhelming richness of Masjed-e Shah. The videos below show the main hall and us exiting the building, back out onto the main square.
Kakh-E Ali Qapu
This six-storey palace was built at the very end of the 16th century as a residence for Shah Abbas I. On the upper floor we saw the music room. The stucco ceiling is riddled with the shapes of vases and other utensils cut to enhance the acoustics.
Encounter with Mullah
We were in the central square of Majed-e Shah when the mullah from the picture below approached us. At first we thought that perhaps he wanted to ask Josi and our guide to tighten their veils a little (which in fact only happened once: in Kashan and it was a middle-aged woman who asked that). Instead, he came to offer caramel candy. He asked where we're from and was very interested in our views and thoughts on Iran. As everyone else we met, he was very keen to hear that we had a great time and asked us to spread the word back home about Iran not being Arabia and that it is friendly and safe.
We asked about him, too. He's studying the words of the Holy Prophet Mohamed at the mosque (this is what the white turban means). As part of that, he's studying other relgions like Christianity and Judaism too but also philosphy and logic. It sounded a bit like an equivalent to the Jesuits.
We asked about him, too. He's studying the words of the Holy Prophet Mohamed at the mosque (this is what the white turban means). As part of that, he's studying other relgions like Christianity and Judaism too but also philosphy and logic. It sounded a bit like an equivalent to the Jesuits.